My friend, Darren Stanford, moved back to his hometown of Oak Ridge, TN. a few years ago. He lives about 30 minutes from Frozen Head State Park & has been going out to observe The Barkley Marathons for the last few years. He shot me an email early this year telling me that there was going to be a “mini-Barkley” for the first time & possibly the only time, this Fall. Sure enough, it went live on Ultra Signup a day later & I signed up. I’ve never had the ambition to try to get in The Barkley Marathons, but I thought that the mini-Barkley was something I could fail at with less pain. The race sold out (300 runners) in 3 days, without any advertising.
The Barkley Fall Classic became my focus point for the year. Even as I trained for and ran the Bryce 50 miler, Pedernales Falls 60k & Colorado Bend 60k night races, I was actually preparing for this “30 miler”. Lots of hill repeats, some power line runs, and a lot of hiking was the menu for training. I flew out to Tennessee a few days before the race & was greeted by Darren & Harry.
The Barkley Fall Classic became my focus point for the year. Even as I trained for and ran the Bryce 50 miler, Pedernales Falls 60k & Colorado Bend 60k night races, I was actually preparing for this “30 miler”. Lots of hill repeats, some power line runs, and a lot of hiking was the menu for training. I flew out to Tennessee a few days before the race & was greeted by Darren & Harry.
Darren took me out to a cool deli place & tap room, then we went out for an evening trail run with some of his trail group friends. We ran in a nice park called Haw Ridge - it had some nice climbs & twisting trails under a nice canopy of trees. After a quick 4 miler, there was more beer in the parking lot: this was shaping up to be a great start for the trip. On Friday, Darren took me up to some of his training grounds in an area called Wind Rock. It was a nice day & we walked around a bit before heading over to Wartburg for packet pickup.
There was an opportunity to have a meal at the American Legion Hall in Wartburg & watch a new movie about The Barkley Marathons. The movie was excellent - lots of great one-liners by Lazarus Lake (Gary Cantrell) - one of the co-founders of the Barkley Marathons. This set a great tone for the next day: there were plenty of comments about failing and finding your limits - something that I have not really, really wanted to find. Maybe because I found out earlier in my running career when I passed out during a 5 mile race, then again during a Marathon. I guess I’m okay backing off when I near that bad place. I think of trail running and ultras as a means to push up against those limits, but not obsess as much about pace or the fact that you sat on a rock for awhile to catch your breath.
We got our gear ready for the next morning & I felt like I had a flexible, yet solid plan to help me finish ahead of the cutoffs. Darren had been able to give me the low-down on some of the trails we would be running. We were given the course map at packet pickup, so we stashed some leather gloves out on one section of trail we would run by before climbing one of the famous Barkley sections. Some of the other helpful tips Darren gave me was to wear calf sleeves & shoes with lugs. Most of my friends know I’m a Hoka guy, but not for this race. I dug some La Sportiva’s out of the back of my closet - I had won them in a contest on IRunFar’s website two years ago & had only worn them a few times. I also chose some Injinji compression socks which I had stowed away a few years ago. They both turned out to be great choices.
We got our gear ready for the next morning & I felt like I had a flexible, yet solid plan to help me finish ahead of the cutoffs. Darren had been able to give me the low-down on some of the trails we would be running. We were given the course map at packet pickup, so we stashed some leather gloves out on one section of trail we would run by before climbing one of the famous Barkley sections. Some of the other helpful tips Darren gave me was to wear calf sleeves & shoes with lugs. Most of my friends know I’m a Hoka guy, but not for this race. I dug some La Sportiva’s out of the back of my closet - I had won them in a contest on IRunFar’s website two years ago & had only worn them a few times. I also chose some Injinji compression socks which I had stowed away a few years ago. They both turned out to be great choices.
We stopped by the old prison for a quick picture. It is no longer being used, but we quickly discovered that they do bring prisoners over from the new prison, most likely to help maintain the site. The bus driver stopped and gave us a lookover as I was trying to get this picture - the bus was full :/ The Barkley Marathons actually goes through a tunnel under part of the prison. After seeing the bus and security at the gate, I decided we didn't need to find it.
We arrived at the race early and got some pre-race happy pics - well, I was happy at least. Laz lit his cigarette to signal the start of the race & we trotted up the road for a mile before we hit the trail head. I ran with Darren and two of his friends, Aaron & Greg. The pack immediately shifted into a nice hiking pace as we climbed Bird Mountain Trail. The four of us stuck together & were able to scamper ahead of a few slower hikers as we climbed. Darren provided regular broadcasts of the elevation, which we teased him about, but secretly appreciated. Darren suggested I pick up a stick to use as a trekking pole ( we were not permitted to use store-bought trekking poles until mile 22 ). I ended up using this stick for the next 16 miles. We summited Bird Mountain as the Sunlight poked through the trees. There was a nice cool breeze as we got to the top of each mountain throughout the day: a nice reward for the work we put in. As we ran down North Bird Trail, I felt alive and a little cautious about pushing too much this early in the race. There were multiple switchbacks, but the trail was dry enough to let it go and enjoy. There were sections where we would slow down to cross water runoffs - these were rocky with green moss to remind you that you could easily bust your ass. We crossed a fairly dry creek at the bottom and shifted back into another long hike. We later learned that one runner broke his ankle there and had to be carried out.
The first aid station was targeted to be 7.6 miles into the race. We reached it at 8.6 miles. This was a trend that continued throughout the race, but I felt prepared for a possible 40 mile day. Next we headed out to an area called the Garden Spot - we went through our first patches of Saw Briars and found some sunglasses that had been ripped from somebody’s head. The saw briars cling on to anything and it gets precarious trying to rid yourself of one of them, let alone hundreds. We seemed to be off-trail at this point (on purpose) and had to go through or by some coal ponds. This included crawling through some downed tree while sinking in muck. As we made it up towards a regular trail, I noticed that my race bib had been ripped off by a tree branch on two of the holes. I worked furiously to fix it while hiking, but gave up and took it off. We had to get our bibs punched of signed at six different spots during the race. This was symbolic as to collecting pages from the books in the Barkley Marathons. We ran along some jeep trails in the shade and came upon the second aid station, made a critical fill up, and headed out. I used a 3 liter camel back bladder and filled it most of the way + filled an extra 20 oz. bottle + had my handheld bottle with 20 oz. of EFS flurry. My plan was to drink one EFS flurry per 10-12 miles, eat a coconut bar every 10-12 miles, and eat some Stinger chews for good measure. This second aid station was supposed to be at 12.4 miles, but I was already over 14 on my Garmin. We passed some power lines & Darren pointed out the section known as Testicle Spectical. Darren gasped and said “Oh Shit” or something like that, but I didn’t know why because we did not have to do that section. What I later realized was that he was commenting on the OVERGROWTH of saw briars.
We made it to Armes Gap, which was a road crossing, and Darren suggested I drop my pack for this out & back section. I did so & carried my two handhelds as we started to climb & climb up on jeep road what is actually Big Fodderstack Mountain. We saw several familiar faces as we hiked up & up - it was nice knowing that we would have a big downhill to recover before hitting Rat Jaw. As I ran down, I talked with a guy who had been running close to me all day - he found out I was from San Antonio & asked if I knew Brian Ricketts and John Sharp. He had recently finished the Eastern States 100 & thought he met somebody else from San Antonio there as well. Anybody do that race and not tell the group (Rockhoppers)? Anyway, it was fun chatting with others all day - another thing I love about trail running.
We made it to Armes Gap, which was a road crossing, and Darren suggested I drop my pack for this out & back section. I did so & carried my two handhelds as we started to climb & climb up on jeep road what is actually Big Fodderstack Mountain. We saw several familiar faces as we hiked up & up - it was nice knowing that we would have a big downhill to recover before hitting Rat Jaw. As I ran down, I talked with a guy who had been running close to me all day - he found out I was from San Antonio & asked if I knew Brian Ricketts and John Sharp. He had recently finished the Eastern States 100 & thought he met somebody else from San Antonio there as well. Anybody do that race and not tell the group (Rockhoppers)? Anyway, it was fun chatting with others all day - another thing I love about trail running.
Interesting sites along the way: Tub Springs & a barred up entrance to a coal mine on Prison Mine Trail.
We ran back & I picked up my pack, then we found our gloves which we had stashed. We headed down the Prison Mine trail & passed this old mine. Within a minute we were at Rat Jaw. You may have noticed that I referred to this as a “section” vs. a trail - there’s no trail. There is nothing but a mountain of saw briars that stand six feet tall. We started up through a small hole in the briars. Forcing ourselves upwards on our hands and knees. There was a little benefit of having 40 or so crawlers go before us. The hill was steep and I had to pull myself up by an occasional root where there was no foothold. The briars clung to my hydration vest and I pulled forcefully away to the sounds of constant ripping. At one point, I found a white nylon fabric in my face & thought I had ripped the insides out of my pack somehow. It was actually Darren’s rain jacket - it had been pulled from his pack & flung in my face. After crawling for 10 minutes, there was an opening above me and I stood up to take a picture. We had gone about 50 yards up.
We ran back & I picked up my pack, then we found our gloves which we had stashed. We headed down the Prison Mine trail & passed this old mine. Within a minute we were at Rat Jaw. You may have noticed that I referred to this as a “section” vs. a trail - there’s no trail. There is nothing but a mountain of saw briars that stand six feet tall. We started up through a small hole in the briars. Forcing ourselves upwards on our hands and knees. There was a little benefit of having 40 or so crawlers go before us. The hill was steep and I had to pull myself up by an occasional root where there was no foothold. The briars clung to my hydration vest and I pulled forcefully away to the sounds of constant ripping. At one point, I found a white nylon fabric in my face & thought I had ripped the insides out of my pack somehow. It was actually Darren’s rain jacket - it had been pulled from his pack & flung in my face. After crawling for 10 minutes, there was an opening above me and I stood up to take a picture. We had gone about 50 yards up.
This section is allegedly .8 miles & we were told that it would take 40 minutes at best. A girl came crawling back towards me at this point and owned that she had not done the out & back section up Fodderstack - I felt really bad for her. She was going to have to do that, then come back & do this again. We went up the middle, then right, then left. I lost Darren, but could hear him talking to people above me. I found a few people making there way up the left side & caught up to Darren. He lead a group of 7-8 of us upwards over some boulders through to the upper parts of Rat Jaw. I could hear others above me yelling when they got close enough to see the Fire Tower. As I climbed up, grabbing onto trees to keep from sliding backwards, I finally made the jeep road. We climbed the Fire Tower to get our next stamp. This was the first of two highs during the day - finishing Rat Jaw - it was epic. We ran back to the aid station - mile 18.7 - 22.5 on my Garmin.
Climbing up the Fire Tower & a view out towards Rat Jaw from the top.
Many runners ran out of water on that section. I could hear the echoing sound of somebody retching in the woods. We bombed down North Old Mac Trail for 3+ miles, finally making it to our drop bags at mile 22.1 (26 on my Garmin). We were about two hours ahead of the cutoffs, so I changed my shoes to some North Face Ultras for a little extra cushion up the last climb. Laz punched my bib, I picked up one trekking pole and took off. Darren had not seen me as I changed my shoes, so he took off. I headed out about 5 minutes behind and started through a sketchy section where the trail seemed to get lost through a blown down tree. Another runner was following me & I didn’t want to get myself and her lost. I found the way & we hit the Chimney Top Trail. I knew it was going to be another 3 mile hike up 1500 feet or so, then get really steep at the top. I struggled to get going, then tried to eat another coconut bar. We summited a ridge and headed down. This scared me because I knew we hadn’t peaked out and I would have to make up any descent with more ascent. When I got to the top, I could see others going up a steep ridge line. This became a death march for most. I sprayed my head and face with cold water and this helped me refocus. This trail rolled up & down several times at the top & I finally reached the old chimney.
Many runners ran out of water on that section. I could hear the echoing sound of somebody retching in the woods. We bombed down North Old Mac Trail for 3+ miles, finally making it to our drop bags at mile 22.1 (26 on my Garmin). We were about two hours ahead of the cutoffs, so I changed my shoes to some North Face Ultras for a little extra cushion up the last climb. Laz punched my bib, I picked up one trekking pole and took off. Darren had not seen me as I changed my shoes, so he took off. I headed out about 5 minutes behind and started through a sketchy section where the trail seemed to get lost through a blown down tree. Another runner was following me & I didn’t want to get myself and her lost. I found the way & we hit the Chimney Top Trail. I knew it was going to be another 3 mile hike up 1500 feet or so, then get really steep at the top. I struggled to get going, then tried to eat another coconut bar. We summited a ridge and headed down. This scared me because I knew we hadn’t peaked out and I would have to make up any descent with more ascent. When I got to the top, I could see others going up a steep ridge line. This became a death march for most. I sprayed my head and face with cold water and this helped me refocus. This trail rolled up & down several times at the top & I finally reached the old chimney.
I got to the last aid station and talked to a park ranger who came in from another park to help out. He saw my U. of D. visor & we talked about his relatives living in Wilmington, DE. (an area I grew up in)- I thanked the park rangers for there time and efforts, decided against the small packages of prunes they offered (must have been a donation), & I headed down the Spicewood Trail towards the finish. I tried to run as much as possible & not get caught by anybody. I got near the park headquarters and asked Laz to take a picture with me.
Finally, I had a mile or so of road left & I cruised it knowing I had done what I came to do. As I rounded the last corner, Darren & his trail buddies were there already celebrating. I crossed the finish line & high fived John Sharp, who had finished in under 10 hours, then we sat back & enjoyed the whole finish line atmosphere. It was a nice day in the Cumberland Mountains. I’m certain I lucked out with the weather. The park is absolutely beautiful, but I’m sure it turns to hell when it is cold, wet, & fogged in. I finished with 36.4 miles on my Garmin - my time was 10:31 & change. When I downloaded my Garmin data, it showed we had ascended 11,900 feet. When this data was converted to Strava, it timed me out on the Rat Jaw section & shows my split as “infinity”.
http://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/595659439
If you want a taste of Barkley, Laz has found a way to give it to you at a reasonable price. We got a nice shirt, compass, & whistle, as well as a unique finisher medal. It was a great trip.